Anchoring floor joist to cinder block wall? - anchor wall block
I re-do the second floor of an addendum. Moreover, with concrete walls. Makers of the fingers in cement block. Was removed after the basement was (staggered from left to right) and not on a plane. I would like to raise a few and keep them on the outside wall with brackets. I need to ask some of them and anchor for all block walls ashes. My plan is to create a 2x4 stick and anchored along the line level, so that the bar in the lower part of the 2x4 and the distribution of coat hangers and tie down. Tapcon anchors are used. The cinder blocks are hollow. Am I on the right track? Can I run the screws through the 2x4 along the beam axis back (no access on the ground floor, not too low, evisceration), or reduce the shear strength of beams?
Anchor Wall Block Anchoring Floor Joist To Cinder Block Wall?
2 comments:
I think I have an idea of what you want to achieve. First, there are a few things that can be useful. Without seeing the work I can only make suggestions to similar situations that I do in the past based on conversion work for my clients have been.
So she took the seabed and are exposed to the beam. To put the beam on a wall of cement block and the height of the beam are lower then what it should be. I hope to understand the problem properly.
My first suggestion is. Assuming that the floor joists are 2 x 8 hardware and space of the beam is 16 "at center. This means that there are approximately 14 1 / 2" from the beam. Determine the height where you want the bars and then take a 2 x 4, which cover the entire width of the room on the bar. Put a level greater than 2 x 4 and after the plane, draw a line, where each end.
Then take a chalk line and hold it against the mark on one and someone to extend the brand through thethe other end, then find the line. This is the line that you want at the top of the beam to reach A.
Now cut a piece of treated 2 x 8 block of 14 1 / 2 "long, or whatever the width between the joists, then on the wall by category, hold the line against the chalk, glue and Tapcon. Once there, the block, You can take the road, and the nails and tail against the block.
Continue to the next category and against the newly installed support and follow the same procedure. Continue to add blocks to be sure to keep even with the level of the peg, and take a new position between the beams at all times keep the right distance. With this method, you will not need crutches.
Alternatively, you can screw or bolt beams on the block, but be sure to pre-drilling to avoid the split blocks. When you are finished, have access to very narrow, high floor beneath. Just install the new sub floor and ready to go to.
The second method is similarar to the first, dass If you only 1 1 / 2 can be "from the end of the beam cut to 1 1 / 2" below the block wall, you can use 2 x 8 piece of treated wood or any size of the support of current and inserted into the wall. Wait until the line level and the wall with glue and Tapcon set.
Then you can proceed to the block method, as described above, except this time, Nail the blocks on board 2 x 8, newly installed or you can use brackets can be hung on the board and install beams in this way. This option is especially good when required by building codes in your area.
Unfortunately, this is so long. Hope this helps, Rick
Looks like you're on the right track. The only problem I have is that there is no vapor barrier between the wall of concrete blocks and wood. Draw concrete blocks are porous and water. In pursuing the construction of the house and the wood is placed on a concrete barrier steam still in use. For this reason wineries are wet.
Another idea would be a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 pressure-treated wood screw to the wall and the installation of floor joists, dass Then you could level the pressure-treated wood and the use of iron for your home.
It is difficult to give recommendations without seeing the work. I hope that helped.
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